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A few things I’ve noted.
8 Batteries seem to be oriented to the use of rechargables. Most are 1.2V vs 1.5. 1.5×6=9, 1.2×6=7.2, so the extra 2 batteries gets you back to 9.6V. So it will feel more like regular alkalines.
AA vs AAA This is about capacity, or run time. The AA batteries can hold more mAH, my recharges AAA are 1100mAH, and AA are 2800mAH so in theory/simply put, the battery pack w AA should last twice as long as AAA.
From what I remember reading, the official LEGO rechargeable should be closer to 9V, so less of an issue.The tutorial on the Rocrail website go into great detail on the program. When I first started out with Mattzo’s items, i just used the Demo plan from Rocrail to setup the switches and signals for testing. I think it has a bit of a learning curve to get things right, as I wasn’t into train modeling prior, but it’s all comes together after a little bit.
Piet, I normally keep my ESp8266/Arduino devices on the breadboard with everything connected/wired up. Never had an issue with updating firmware. Once you do the initial load, the new v.03 software should allow OTA(over the air) updates, so no need to connect cable back, unless you want to see serial monitor.